Ensure you understand the rules regarding the driving licence as described in the other sections of this training section. That will help you decide what category of bike to aim for.
If you want to ride a sports bike, be realistic about what you can handle. You might dream about blasting along on something fast and powerful like a Kawasaki ZX-12R, but are you capable and brave enough to handle such a vehicle.
Choose a bike that suits you, not one that you can pose on. If you will be commuting during heavy traffic, you will want something that handles well, something agile. But if you are going to be riding long distances, you'll need a comfortable bike that is good with high mileage.
A bike should suit your size, too. You can't control the machine properly if your feet don't touch the floor.
New vs Used
Not only is a new bike more expensive than its pre-owned equivalent, your purchase will greatly depreciate in value over its first year. (This is only a problem if you plan to keep the bike for no more than a matter of months.)
There are several advantages to buying a new motorcycle. First, there's the likelihood that the dealer will take your old bike in part-exchange. Franchise and import outlets will be able to offer a full manufacturer's warranty, low-rate finance deals and a good level of after-sales service. However, sales tactics are often high-pressure and prices don't offer great value.
A non-franchised dealer will offer more competitive prices and have a wider range of bikes from a variety of makers. But they might not all be the latest models and any warranties could have a large excess, meaning that only faults costing over a certain amount to repair are covered. Plus, the bikes in stock might not be the 'official' British versions.
Some dealers - but not many - sell online, which can often make for a quicker purchasing process, but there is little chance of negotiating a discount.
If you are looking to purchase a used bike, you should make extensive checks before handing over your money, and you'll need a torch to do so - even during the day. Shine the light in every nook and cranny behind the bodywork to check for rust, cracks and evidence of repair work. Give the exterior a good once-over for evidence, suchs as scuffs and dents, that the bike has been dropped or bumped
Private sellers will often be unwilling to let you take a test drive (they'll be afraid that you won't come back). But you can turn on the ignition to check that the engine starts properly and doesn't smoke, that the clutch doesn't slip, and that there are no leaks under the bike.
Ensure the chain isn't worn or slack and that the rear sprocket isn't bent or worn. If you are able to go for a test drive, check that the bike doesn't slip out of gear as it accelerates.
Assess whether the mileage is consistent with the bike's age and condition. If they don't tally, the motorcycle might have been ‘clocked' - its odometer having been unscrupulously turned back.
Finally, consult the motorcycle's V5 (its logbook) and verify that the frame and engine numbers therein are the same as those on the bike itself. If they aren't, the machine has either been rebuilt after an accident or it's stolen.
If you wish, you can use an organisation such as HPICheck to establish the bike's history of ownership, repairs etc.
If you have any doubts about the bike, leave it and check out another.
